Nestled in the heart of the Stagnone Lagoon in Marsala, the small island of Mozia stands as one of Sicily’s most captivating historical sites. In the 8th century BC, the Phoenicians established a thriving colony here, taking full advantage of the island’s strategic position: surrounded by shallow waters, easily defensible and a safe harbor for ships. Mozia quickly became one of the most prosperous centers of the ancient Mediterranean – a legacy that lives on in one of the world’s best-preserved Phoenician archaeological sites.
Mozia: A Timeless Island of History and Viticulture
But Mozia is not just a treasure trove of history; it is also a land of viticulture. Grape cultivation on the island dates back centuries, as evidenced by numerous grape seeds unearthed during archaeological excavations. These findings, along with related installations and wine containers, highlight the significance of vines in the society and culture of the “Western Phoenicians.” In the 20th century, tenant farmers continued the tradition, transporting grapes from Mozia to the mainland using the ancient “underwater road,” a stunning feat of Phoenician engineering dating back to the 6th century BC.
«Mozia is an open-air museum where archaeological excavations and vineyards coexist in perfect harmony»
The Legacy of Joseph Whitaker
Mozia owes much of its preservation to Joseph Whitaker (1850–1936), an Anglo-Sicilian ornithologist and archaeologist descended from Benjamin Ingham, one of the pioneering producers of Marsala. Between 1906 and 1929, Whitaker carried out significant archaeological excavations on the island. After his death, his daughter Delia established the Whitaker Foundation, which purchased Mozia and continues to safeguard its cultural and natural heritage to this day.
The “Phoenician Wine”
In 2007, the Whitaker Foundation entrusted the Tasca d’Almerita family with an ambitious project to restore Mozia’s historic Grillo vineyards. The goal was to revive the “Wine of the Phoenicians”, breathing new life into this ancient winemaking tradition. This initiative represents a unique chapter in the Tasca family’s history, as their connection to Mozia and Whitaker dates back to the early 20th century. Records from Whitaker’s guestbook even feature the signatures of Ottavio and Paolo Tasca d’Almerita, underscoring the enduring ties between these families and this remarkable island.
«The Whitaker and Tasca d’Almerita families’ destinies have intertwined on the island of Mozia»
The Origins of Grillo: A Hybrid Born for Marsala
The first Grillo vines on Mozia were likely planted in the early 20th century, sourced directly from nurseries in Favara. This grape variety, a hybrid of Catarratto and Muscat of Alexandria, was developed by Baron Antonio Mendola, who wrote in 1904: «I crossed the common Sicilian Catarratto (…) with Zibibbo, to create a hybrid combining the virtues of both parents, capable of producing a more aromatic Marsala».
This innovative crossbreed found ideal conditions to flourish in the Marsala area, where the growing popularity of Marsala wine provided the perfect environment for its rapid spread. Over time, Grillo adapted seamlessly to the local terroir.
«Mozia, now uninhabited, boasts a unique microclimate where the Grillo grape thrives in ideal conditions»
A Unique Vineyard Amidst the Salt Lagoon
Today, Mozia is home to approximately 13 hectares of vineyards, situated in an environment without electricity or freshwater for irrigation, in the heart of a salty, wind-swept lagoon – one of the windiest in the Mediterranean.
The island’s soil is uniquely suited to viticulture. It originates from ancient marine terraces, resulting in sandy, loose, highly draining soils rich in limestone. Since the terrain is flat, rainwater collects underground without mixing with the salty lagoon, providing a vital freshwater reserve for the vines.
Mozia’s microclimate is equally remarkable. The surrounding lagoon creates a significant thermal inversion during the hottest months, helping to preserve the aromatic compounds synthesized by the vines during the day.
The winters and springs are cool and dry, while the summers are scorching and drought-prone. Given these conditions, bush-trained vines (alberello) are the only viable cultivation method. This low-canopy system requires less water and shields the vines from the harsh climate. The vines are pruned using the traditional “marsalese” technique, weaving two long shoots into small arches. This method protects the grapes from the intense sun and salty sea breeze, ensuring they reach optimal ripeness while maintaining their distinct aromatic profile.
«The grapes harvested for winemaking are brought to Tenuta Regaleali, the historic Tasca d’Almerita estate»
The Journey of Grillo: From Mozia to Regaleali
Grillo is perfectly adapted to the intense heat of Marsala, demonstrating strong resistance to disease while preserving the exceptional qualities of its parent grapes.
Since Mozia lacks on-site winemaking facilities, the grapes are transported to the Tasca d’Almerita estate at Tenuta Regaleali for vinification. Harvested at dawn and carefully placed in crates, the grapes are swiftly ferried to the mainland using flat-bottomed boats that cross the Stagnone Lagoon. Once ashore, refrigerated trucks await to transport the precious cargo to Regaleali, ensuring the grapes’ freshness and quality throughout their journey.
«the SOSTAIN FOUNDATION INCLUDES DOZENS OF SICILIAN WINE CELLARS, ALL COMMITTED TO THE SUSTAINABLE GROWTH OF SICILY»
Leading Sustainability with B Corp & SOStain Certifications
Tasca d’Almerita is a proud B Corp-certified winery, part of a global network of companies committed to high standards of social and environmental sustainability, accountability and transparency. This prestigious certification, awarded by B Lab, recognizes the winery’s dedication to fostering an inclusive, equitable and regenerative economy.
A cornerstone of this achievement is the SOStain protocol, adopted by Tasca d’Almerita in 2010. Certified by an independent body, this program is based on ten measurable and comparable minimum sustainability requirements. SOStain champions a holistic approach to agriculture that extends beyond the vineyards, safeguarding workers’ welfare, consumer health, local ecosystems and natural resources.
CONTACTS
Tenuta Whitaker
91025 Isola di Mozia (TP)
www.tascadalmerita.it
